Bojana Šašić

Behind the label, the true cost of fashion sustainability

While fashion giants promise sustainability and a better future through their collections, behind the scenes, something much more complex and less encouraging is unfolding...

Bojana Šašić

Manager


As fashion giants strive to clean up their image and promise a better future through sustainable sourcing, greater transparency and accountability are needed.

Facing ongoing challenges such as climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution, the world seeks ways to address the environmental crises surrounding us. Global engagement is driving a range of initiatives and policies to reduce negative impacts on nature and promote sustainable development. These changes require technological innovation and a fundamental transformation in how societies perceive and value natural resources.

The quest for solutions drives innovation and new strategic thinking within industries traditionally considered significant polluters, such as energy, transportation, and fashion. At the same time, we are witnessing environmental issues and sustainable development becoming central to the strategies of many companies, and the fashion industry is no exception.

In contemporary consumer culture, the image of sustainability is becoming increasingly significant. Brands race to communicate their "green" values, creating an image of responsible corporations dedicated to environmental protection. Global awareness of environmental issues and the need for sustainable development is becoming an increasingly pronounced trend, opening up space for discussion about corporate responsibility and the need for transparent business practices. However, behind carefully crafted marketing campaigns often lie complex and less transparent practices. How much do they truly align with the values brands promote? As research shows, the reality is much more complicated.

Fashion brands like Zara and H&M often highlight their commitment to sustainable sourcing and ethical production, as evidenced by the launch of collections promoted as ethical and sustainable.

Yet, behind the scenes of their marketing campaigns, serious concerns have emerged regarding the sourcing of raw materials they use, raising questions about the authenticity of their claims.

Despite all their efforts, questions persist about the actual effectiveness and transparency of these initiatives. H&M, in particular, is notable for its "Conscious Collection," which is advertised as a collection made from sustainable materials such as organic cotton and recycled polyester.

The company aims to produce its entire assortment from recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030. Additionally, the company aims to reduce CO2 emissions by 56% by 2030 compared to the 2019 baseline and achieve net-zero emissions by 2040.

As part of the Inditex group, Zara is committed to reducing its environmental impact through the "Join Life" collection, which uses recycled materials and organically grown cotton. Launched to promote sustainable materials, this collection includes recycled polyester, often derived from used PET bottles, and Tencel Lyocell fibers derived from wood cellulose.

Additionally, Zara has recognized the importance of waste reduction by installing recycling points in all its stores. The cardboard boxes used for product transport and delivery are FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified and can be reused multiple times before recycling.

However, critics argue that terms like sustainability are used ambiguously without providing detailed information on what exactly makes products sustainable, and the percentage of such materials in products needs to be precisely defined. Moreover, both brands must provide more transparent and precise information about their sustainable practices and materials to avoid ambiguous and potentially misleading claims.

This becomes increasingly important as consumers become more educated about the state of the fashion industry and as organizations like the Norwegian Consumer Authority begin to scrutinize brands' sustainability claims in more detail.

Despite all efforts, the latest report from the British organization Earthsight reveals serious flaws in their supply chains, particularly concerning cotton production in Cerrado, Brazil. In recent years, global attention has been focused on protecting the Amazon, the planet's vast green lung.

Brazil's Cerrado, undergoing a quiet crisis, is a lesser-known but equally important ecosystem.

Unlike the Brazilian Amazon, where deforestation is decreasing, the Cerrado saw a 43% increase in forest loss in 2023 compared to the previous year.

This savanna is home to a third of Brazil's biodiversity and 5% of the world's species but has lost more than half of its native vegetation due to intensive agriculture.

The Brazilian cotton industry is increasingly pressing the region. Almost all cotton in the country is grown in the Cerrado, and Brazil is expected to become the world's leading cotton supplier by 2030.

Deforestation in the Cerrado is not just an environmental problem; it is deeply intertwined with human rights and social justice. The industrial production of cotton used for the global fashion industry is at the heart of this crisis.

Earthsight conducted research focused on tracking cotton. The organization found that between 2014 and 2023, 816,000 tons of cotton were exported from plantations operated by companies such as SLC Agricola and Horita Group to the supply chains of major fashion brands.

These companies are linked to destroying around 100,000 hectares of nature in the Cerrado. Cotton from these plantations was supplied to eight Asian clothing manufacturers, including Zara and H&M clients.

These plantations are often owned by wealthy and powerful families who use their influence to avoid legal consequences despite the environmental and social damage they cause.

It is absurd that, despite apparent harm, cotton from these plantations carries sustainability labels from major certification bodies such as Better Cotton. This raises doubts about the effectiveness and integrity of existing certification systems. The significance of this issue extends beyond Brazil, as the EU, as one of the largest importers of clothing, plays a vital role in this supply chain.

It is becoming increasingly clear that such crises cannot be solved through individual consumer choices alone; severe regulatory intervention is needed. Proposed EU laws, such as the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSD), can provide a framework for more responsible business practices.

However, rigorous checks are necessary to ensure that cotton and other raw materials do not contribute to environmental degradation and human rights violations, especially considering the new deforestation regulation that comes into effect on December 30, 2024. At the heart of this issue lies the fundamental question of the ethics and sustainability of our consumption.

The fashion world is at a crossroads, teetering between real sustainability and marketing facades. While corporations like Zara and H&M adorn themselves with green feathers, the real story lies deeply rooted in the soil of devastated ecosystems like the Cerrado. But what if every label on our clothes carried the story of those who live there? As the fashion business world faces increasing pressure to redefine its practices, the question remains: can we change the game's rules?

Is it possible to imagine a fashion industry that seeks to avoid harm and actively works to restore what has been destroyed? Let's imagine a fashion revolution where transparency doesn't just mean seeing through material but having insight into the entire supply chain, all the way to its source.

Where corporate responsibility goes beyond legal obligations and becomes a moral compass guiding sustainable development, as consumers, we have the power to shape that future.

Not just by asking questions but by demanding answers and acting on what we learn. It's not just a matter of style; it's a question of global heritage.

As fashion giants strive to clean up their image and promise a better future through sustainable sourcing, greater transparency and accountability are needed to ensure those promises are not just marketing tricks.